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Episode 25 with Alan Arnette: The Everest Chronicler
Referred to by Outside Magazine as "one of the world's most respected chroniclers of Everest," Alan Arnette is not only a journalist, but also a climber. At age 38, Alan discovered a passion for climbing and completed over 37 expeditions, including Mt. Everest and K2. Living in Colorado, he has summited all 58 of the 14,000-foot mountains over 225 times.
In anticipation of the 2025 Mt Everest climbing season, Alan joins Sam and Adrian on episode 25 of the Duffel Shuffle Podcast! Alan talks about his life, entering the world of climbing and mountaineering as an adult.
- Alan shares his path to climbing, and how he shifted his life at age 38 and became quickly embedded into the world of mountaineering.
- Alan talks about some of his experiences on expeditions, including Mt Everest and K2 expeditions that were transformative in his life as a climber.
- Alan highlights the importance of having a purpose in climbing, and shares his connection to Alzheimer's advocacy after watching his mom, Ida, decline. Today, he advocates for Alzheimer's patients and caregivers through his mountain climbing.
You can learn more about Alan through his blog, https://www.alanarnette.com/ and his Instagram, @arnette.alan. Alan's coaching services can be followed at https://summitcoach.org/.
Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about us and our guests. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.
Episode 24: A Behind the Scenes Look at Planning Everest Expeditions
On Episode 24 of The Duffel Shuffle Podcast, Sam and Adrian dive into the nitty gritty details of what goes into planning an Everest Expedition, behind the scenes. Adrian has guided dozens of expeditions to the Himalaya, and while the industry and technology are forever changing, the process of planning a Himalayan expedition, particularly to Mt Everest, follows a fairly typically path.
- Everest planning is truly a year-round activity, but Adrian tries to protect the month of July as his "no Everest" month.
- Beginning in August, and lasting until the early part of January, Adrian is focused on building the best possible team. This often starts with clients, but by the permit deadline he has his clients, guides and sherpa team established.
- Once the CTMA (Chinese Tibetan Mountaineering Association) permit deadline comes and goes, Adrian's focus turns to equipment and travel plans. With gear cache's in Tingri, Tibet and Kathmandu Nepal, as well as the US, and other supplies coming from Europe and South America, the duffel shuffle is always extensive.
- Finally, with visa's secured, and equipment en route, Adrian and the team will begin their travels through China, into the TAR, and onto Basecamp.
You can follow Adrian's Everest season and more on Instagram @adrianballinger, and the entire team through @alpenglowexpeditions.
Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about us and our guests. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.
Episode 23 with Tyler Andrews: Bringing Speed to the Tallest Peaks Around the World
Tyler Andrews is a world class endurance runner whose start on the road has paved the way for success in the mountains. He competed in two Olympic Trials, three World Championships, and found his true passion in the mountains, where he has set countless world records in the Himalaya, Andes, USA, and Africa.
Not just an athlete, Tyler has also been working with athletes of all levels as a coach for more than a decade.
Tyler joins Sam and Adrian on Episode 23 of the Duffel Shuffle Podcast! The three talk about Tylers blast onto the scene of big mountains.
- Tyler talks about his background as a professional runner, and how the cancellation of races during COVID launched him into the scene of Fastest Known Times (FKT's).
- He shares some of his experiences and strategies in the Himalaya, from FKT's on peaks like Manaslu and Ama Dablam, to treks in the Khumbu.
- With training as a paramount focus, Tyler talks about his own goals and strategies, as well as his business, Chaski, which offers training support to athletes of all levels.
You can follow Tyler on Instagram, @tylercandrews, and learn more about his big mountain adventures. More on Tyler's training collective, Chaski, can be found online here. Additionally, Tyler's training can be followed on his Substack and you can hear about it and more on his YouTube.
Episode 22 with Dr. Monica Piris: Mount Everest’s Best Known Doctor
Monica Piris is an expedition doctor who has been working in the Himalaya since before Adrian started climbing there, by one expedition! Together, Monica and Adrian have completed dozens of expeditions, and Monica has established herself as one of the best known high altitude doctor's on the planet. She has been a critical part of countless Everest expeditions, and has worked with hundreds of climbers to reach their goals of climbing the highest peaks in the world.
Monica joins Sam and Adrian on Episode 22 of the Duffel Shuffle Podcast! The three talk about Monica's career as an expedition doctor.
- Monica shares how she got her start on an early expedition in the Himalaya with Russell Brice.
- She sheds light on the realities of being an expedition doctor, including the day to day medical value which is primarily basic care. Generally speaking, most of the expedition doctors role is addressing minor altitude, gastrointestinal and upper respiratory illnesses.
- In collaboration with the expedition leader, Monica talks about the decisions she helps make, from both a medical and logistical perspective. Part of her value is having a clear perspective as she's not on the mountain at higher altitudes.
You can follow Monica on Instagram, @monica_piris, and learn more about her work through Alpenglow Expeditions' blogs and webpages.
Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about us and our guests. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.
Episode 21 with Nick Russell: A Splitboarder’s Soul with an Alpinist’s Drive
Nick Russell has been exploring the world by snowboard for more than a decade now. What started as a career competing has transitioned to strictly human powered exploration to some of the worlds highest peaks. Nick's drive comes from being truly passionate about riding his snowboard, and loves travel and exploration just as much as a day in Truckee riding with friends.
Sam and Adrian sit down with Nick to talk about his path to riding professionally:
- The three talk about Nick's career trajectory, from growing up in a skiing family, through competing on his snowboard, and eventually following the footsteps of those before him into the world of human powered exploration.
- Mentors that have played a big role in many professional's lives, including the mentorship of Jeremy Jones, Jim Zellers, Hilaree Nelson, Jim Morrison and others that have shaped Nick's path.
- Nick's recent expedition to Papsura, where he completed the first snowboard descent of the iconic peak as a tribute line to the Hilaree Nelson.
You can learn more about Nick and his career on his Instagram, @nick_russelll and check out his new film 'Papsura: Peak of Evil' on Youtube here.
Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about us and our guests. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.
Episode 20 with Michelle Parker: Not Your Average Professional Skier
Michelle Parker has been a professional skier since she was 15 years old. Now, more than 2 decades later, Michelle is so much more than your every day professional skier (or athlete for that matter). From mentoring younger athletes to excelling at other off-season sports, Michelle's impact on the sport and the people around her is admirable.
You can check out more about Michelle and her career on her Instagram @myshellparker. From projects with her sponsors @arcteryx and @redbull, to her own Podcast 'Care Less, Do More.', there's a lot to see of Michelle through the years.
Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about us and our guests. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.
Episode 19: The Business of a Professional Mountain Athlete
Adrian Ballinger has been a professional mountain athlete for somewhere between 1 decade and 3 decades. While he certainly knows a thing or two about climbing mountains, he's also built a brand around himself, and has represented brands through working not only as a guide but also an athlete.
Sam and Adrian discuss Adrian's trajectory as a sponsored athlete, from when he got his first support from La Sportiva in a free pair of shoes, to now where he's supported by multiple large brands such as Black Diamond, La Sportiva, and others. Adrian shares a bit about what his job duties entail, and how he's structured his support, with a clothing brand typically anchoring his support.
You can check out more about Adrian and his career on his Instagram @adrianballinger, and his sponsors @blackdiamond, @tincupwhiskey, @lasportivana, @revelshine, @corosglobal and @vuarnetofficial.
Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about us and our guests. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.
Episode 18: Tommy Caldwell
Yosemite Valley legend Tommy Caldwell joins Sam and Adrian on Episode 18 of the Duffel Shuffle Podcast. Tommy talks about this season in Yosemite Valley, and why moving his family to South Lake Tahoe has changed how he's able to climb in the valley. He also talks about his recent film, The Devil's Climb, which covers his recent trip to climb the Devils Thumb in Alaska with Alex Honnold. Tommy admits that his true passion in climbing is the sufferfest expeditions, but really he just loves climbing regardless of what it entails.
Follow Tommy on Instagram @tommycaldwell, and check out The Devil's Climb.
Episode 17: The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is Growing!
Sam and Adrian catch up on their plans and what schedules look like as they head into winter. After the break, the two reflect on the podcast to-date, and share some exciting updates for future episodes. Moving forward, episodes will launch Wednesday's and be available in the early morning hours. Starting with episode 18, an editor will give The Duffel Shuffle a fresh sound, and future guests like Tommy Caldwell, Michelle Parker and Nick Russel will be joining in.
Episode 16: How to Move Faster on Big Mountain Expeditions
Sam and Adrian follow up on their conversation started in Episode 15. After discussion high altitude climbing and acclimatization, the two dive into a conversation about pre-acclimatization using hypoxic tents, and the program that Alpenglow Expeditions has established in Rapid Ascent. The program utilizes pre-acclimatization alongside advanced trip logistics to reduce the total expedition time by 25-50%.
Episode 15: Are You Ready to Climb To A Higher Altitude?
After discussing the three Piolets d'Or winners, and 60 finalists, Sam and Adrian jump into the complicated topic of high altitude climbing. The two share stories of their early experiences with altitude and talk about the basics of acclimatization and what a typical schedule might look at. Finally, they dive into the "aids" that are used for altitude climbing, from Diamox and Dexamethasone to Oxygen. A future episode will discuss the topic of Pre-Acclimatization using hypoxic tents, and what the Rapid Ascent system that Adrian has pioneered looks like.
Episode 14: So You Want to Be A Mountain Guide?
Adrian and Sam chat about what it means to be a mountain guide. From introducing the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) and International Federation of Mountain Guide Associations (IFMGA) to discussing the decades of guides who came before the AMGA path was the standard, this episode is a great starting point for those curious about the training and business side of the guiding industry.
Episode 13: David Morton — A Life Beyond Everest
In Episode 13, Adrian and Sam sit down with David Morton. Dave is a freelance climbing and expedition guide, photographer/videographer, filmmaker, speaker-presenter, and founder of The Juniper Fund. In this episode, Dave talks about his life as a mountain guide on the worlds tallest peaks, including 10 Mt Everest Expeditions. He also shares information on his foundation, The Juniper Fund, which supports and empowers families and communities impacted by the loss of Himalayan high-altitude workers. Join us for our conversation with Dave.
Episode 12: Cody Townsend - 50 More Ski Lines?
Sam and Adrian sit down with Cody Townsend. The three discuss Cody's transition to the world of ski mountaineering, and his 50 Project which has taken the world of backcountry skiing by storm. With only 4 lines remaining, Cody discusses his progress and his attempts this past spring on University Peak and Mount St. Elias. Cody also shares his newest project, The 50 Plus, which will debut in October.
Episode 11: The Adventure Addicts - The Importance of Authenticity
Sam and Adrian sit down with Zoe and Kelby of The Adventure Addicts. These two have built a career as influencers, and they share a bit about their path, their jobs and their passions. The episode dives into the significant role influencers play in the outdoor industry, and the importance of remaining authentic. Their channel, @the_adventureaddicts on Instagram, has amassed nearly 500,000 followers, including a loyal 10 who just joined Zoe and Kelby on an Alpenglow Expeditions trip to Ecuador
Episode 10: Alex Honnold, Professional Climber
Alex Honnold makes a special appearance on The Duffel Shuffle Podcast. Sam and Adrian chat with Alex about his motivations in climbing, why he's decided high altitude climbing isn't for him, and what his future goals are now that he's a father to two.
Episode 09: Emily Harrington - The Olympic Dream
Emily Harrington joins Sam and Adrian to talk all things Olympics. Emily, who herself participated in an exhibition event in 2006 at the Winter Olympics, has followed the growth and expansion of competition climbing for more than 2 decades. From the early days of the World Cup circuit in which Emily competed to the addition of climbing in the Olympics in which Emily has followed as a fan, competition climbing is exploding in popularity. Emily's perspective as an athlete provides invaluable insight into the sport.
Episode 08: Cory Richards - Adventure, Mental Health, and Life in The Color of Everything
Cory Richards joins Sam and Adrian on this episode of The Duffel Shuffle. After publishing his memoir, The Color of Everything, Cory talks about his fond memories of exploring the worlds tallest mountains, his ongoing struggles with Bipolar 2 and mental health, and what he’s up to today to feed his soul. To check out Cory’s new book, visit a local bookstore, or order it online at amazon.com
Episode 07: Will Cockrell - Everest, Inc.
Sam and Adrian are joined by author Will Cockrell to discuss his new book titled Everest, Inc. Will, who has covered the Mt Everest climbing season as a journalist for nearly 2 decades, chronicles the development of an industry that, each spring, becomes a focal point of the outdoor media.
Featuring original interviews with mountain guides and climbers—including Jimmy Chin and Conrad Anker—this vivid and authoritative adventure history chronicles one of the least likely industries on guided climbing on Mount Everest.
Episode 06: Jim Morrison - A Passion For Adventure
Professional Ski Mountaineer Jim Morrison joins Sam and Adrian for Episode 6.
The three talk about Jim's recent exploits in the Karakoram: a successful descent of the Great Trango Tower after he was unsuccessful the year prior.
Jim talks about enduring some of life's lowest lows and highest highs, and consistently coming back to the joy he experiences from any adventure, near or far.